‘Fragrance’ labels can hide up to 1,200 hazardous chemicals
A peer-reviewed study published this week has found that about 85% of personal care products purchased at major US retailers contain toxic chemicals that do not appear on the product label, with some items testing positive for substances directly contradicted by their marketing claims.
The study, conducted by researchers at Million Marker, a San Francisco-based company that offers at-home testing for chemical exposure, examined 113 items bought from retailers including Target and Amazon. The sample spanned baby products, moisturizers, soaps, shampoos, toothpaste, feminine hygiene products, body washes and cleaning products. Researchers used a non-targeted chemical analysis — designed to detect thousands of substances rather than a predetermined list — and cross-referenced findings with a US Environmental Protection Agency database of hazardous chemicals.
The analysis netted 303 chemicals the authors felt confident were present, though the true number could be higher. Across the sample, tested products contained more than three times as many chemicals as were listed on their labels. Twenty-six percent of products labeled “eco,” “green” or “natural” contained at least one dangerous compound. Synthetic chemicals appeared in items marketed as “100% natural”; phthalates appeared in products labeled “phthalate-free”; and known allergens appeared in products marketed as “hypoallergenic.”
Among the substances detected were hormone disruptors and carcinogens including phthalates, parabens, PFAS and formaldehyde. Many of these chemicals are linked to cancer, neurological disease, reproductive harm and damage to developing children, according to the authors and prior research in the field. Personal care product chemicals can be absorbed into the body, studies in recent decades have found.
The most widespread undisclosed toxicants fall under the umbrella term “fragrance” or “parfum” on product labels, the researchers wrote. US law does not require companies to be more specific about what those terms encompass, and “fragrance” can include any of 1,200 hazardous chemicals. Some ingredients may be added illegally, may form through unintended chemical reactions among other ingredients, or may leach from plastic packaging.
Jenna Hua, a lead author with Million Marker, said researchers had expected to find some unlabeled chemicals but were still “shocked” by the breadth of the findings. “I spend my money, and I want to get a good product – why am I being lied to?” Hua said.
It is unclear from the study whether products are intentionally adulterated or unintentionally contaminated. Hua said Million Marker has spoken with small businesses that want to clean up their products but are also fearful of predatory lawsuits over contamination in their supply chains. “There needs to be some regulations and a testing component to ensure it’s safe,” Hua said. Million Marker is fundraising to do more testing.
Kristen Knox, a research scientist with the Silent Spring public health non-profit, which has also tested personal care products for toxic chemicals but was not involved in this research, said the findings highlight a fundamental flaw in the regulatory system. “It’s very hard for the individual consumer to know what’s in the products, even if they are super-conscientious and reading the labels,” Knox said. “Consumers don’t have access to a lab.”
Knox said the US framework treats chemicals as safe by default. “The US approach to chemical regulation is to assume everything is safe unless there is evidence of harm, instead of testing beforehand to ensure it’s safe,” she said. Previous Silent Spring research estimated that listed ingredients in personal care products release 5,000 tons of volatile organic compounds into US homes each year.
In 2022, a public health group found benzene, a highly carcinogenic chemical, in 27% of 663 products it tested, including some at life-threatening levels, which triggered major recalls by Procter & Gamble, Bayer, CVS and others for brands such as Old Spice and Pantene.
The study offers no foolproof way to avoid undisclosed ingredients. Researchers recommended several steps to reduce exposure: avoiding products that list “fragrance” or “parfum”; choosing products with less plastic packaging to reduce contamination from plasticizers such as BPA or phthalates; and selecting products with fewer and verifiably natural ingredients, though they noted that doing so does not eliminate risk. The Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep database, which rates ingredient lists for thousands of products, was cited as a resource for consumers, though the database does not cover unlabeled ingredients. Hua also recommended reducing the number of personal care products used and avoiding categories such as nail products, which carry higher contamination risk.